A route guide to the western Srinagar–Leh highway: Lamayuru Moonland, the drive to Kargil via Mulbekh, the Kargil War Memorial and Drass sightseeing, plus a Kargil to Leh itinerary for travellers heading east.
The western half of the Srinagar–Leh highway is one of the most varied drives in Ladakh. In a single day you pass through the eroded "Moonland" around Lamayuru, cross Fotu La and Namika La, pass the rock-cut Buddha at Mulbekh and reach the town of Kargil. A short drive further west brings you to Drass and the Kargil War Memorial. This guide covers the Lamayuru to Kargil route and the stretch on to Drass, whichever direction you are travelling.
Route overview
- Leh → Lamayuru: via Nimmu, Saspol and Khalsi, along the Indus. Roughly 115–125 km.
- Lamayuru → Fotu La → Namika La → Mulbekh → Kargil. Roughly 110 km.
- Kargil → Drass. About 60 km.
Lamayuru Moonland
The landscape around Lamayuru is made of soft, eroded sediment – pale yellow and grey ridges and pinnacles that look unlike anywhere else in Ladakh. It is believed to be the bed of an ancient lake. The area is widely known as the Lamayuru Moonland.
- Best light: early morning and late afternoon, when shadows bring out the texture of the hills.
- Viewpoints: stop at safe pull-outs on the highway above the village; do not park on bends.
- Walking: the soil is loose and crumbly. Stay on paths and do not climb the formations.
Lamayuru Monastery stands above the Moonland. See our guide to the best monasteries in Ladakh for more on visiting it.
Staying in Lamayuru
Lamayuru village has a handful of guesthouses and small hotels below the monastery. Staying overnight lets you see the Moonland at both sunset and sunrise, and breaks the long drive between Kargil and Leh. Facilities are simple, and the village is quiet after dark.
Photographing the Moonland
- A telephoto lens picks out patterns in the eroded ridges; a wide lens captures the monastery above the formations.
- Side light in the early morning and late afternoon brings out texture; midday light flattens it.
- Always pull fully off the road – this is a busy highway with heavy trucks.
Lamayuru to Kargil route
From Lamayuru the road climbs to Fotu La, the highest point on the Srinagar–Leh highway, then descends to the village of Kharbu before climbing again to Namika La. After Namika La you drop into the Wakha valley and reach Mulbekh.
Stops along the way
- Fotu La: broad views across the ranges. Short stop only.
- Namika La: a striking rock peak nearby.
- Mulbekh: the rock-cut Maitreya Buddha beside the road and gompas on the ridge above.
- Shergol: a small cave monastery visible on the cliff.
For more on the passes, read our Ladakh high mountain passes guide.
Kharbu and the Wakha valley
Between the two passes, the small village of Kharbu offers dhabas and a chance to stretch your legs. After Namika La, the road drops into the Wakha valley, where fields and willows line the river and Buddhist and Muslim villages sit close together. It is a pleasant stretch to drive slowly and enjoy.
Kargil town
Kargil sits at the confluence of the Suru and Drass rivers and is the second-largest town in Ladakh. It has a mainly Shia Muslim population and a busy market. Most travellers on the Srinagar–Leh highway spend a night here.
- Hotels: a range of hotels and guesthouses, mostly in the main town.
- Food: local restaurants serve Kashmiri and Ladakhi dishes.
- Supplies: fuel, ATMs and pharmacies are available in town.
- Etiquette: dress modestly, especially during religious events.
Detour: the Suru valley
From Kargil, a road runs south up the Suru valley towards Sankoo, Panikhar and Parkachik, with views of the Nun and Kun peaks, and on towards Zanskar. It is a worthwhile detour for travellers with extra days, but it is a separate trip rather than a quick side visit.
Drass to Kargil road trip
The road from Kargil to Drass follows the Drass river through a narrow valley. Drass is often described as one of the coldest inhabited places in India. On a Drass to Kargil road trip, travellers heading east from Srinagar usually stop at the memorial and continue to Kargil for the night.
Kargil War Memorial
The Kargil War Memorial at Drass commemorates the soldiers who died in the 1999 Kargil conflict, known in India as Operation Vijay. The memorial faces the Tololing ridge, where some of the fighting took place.
- What you will see: a sandstone wall with the names of soldiers, exhibits in a gallery and views of the surrounding peaks.
- Visiting: the memorial is maintained by the Indian Army.
- Etiquette: this is a place of remembrance. Behave respectfully and follow instructions about photography.
- Vijay Diwas: ceremonies are held on 26 July each year; access may be restricted around that date.
Drass sightseeing
- Kargil War Memorial: the main reason most travellers stop.
- Views of Tololing and Tiger Hill: visible from the memorial and the highway.
- Drass village: a small market and tea stalls.
- Mushkoh valley: known for wildflowers in summer.
Kargil to Leh itinerary
If you are travelling east from Srinagar, here is a relaxed Kargil to Leh itinerary over one or two days:
Option 1: one day
Kargil → Mulbekh → Namika La → Fotu La → Lamayuru → Alchi or straight to Leh. This is a long day, with most stops kept short.
Option 2: two days (recommended)
- Day 1: Kargil → Mulbekh → Lamayuru. Overnight in Lamayuru, with sunset over the Moonland.
- Day 2: Lamayuru → Alchi → Likir → Magnetic Hill → Leh.
The two-day option breaks up the drive and lets you acclimatise more gradually. For the full road from Srinagar, see our Srinagar to Leh travel guide. Riders should also read our Srinagar to Leh bike trip guide.
Travelling west: Leh to Kargil and Drass
If you are leaving Ladakh towards Srinagar, reverse the plan: Leh to Lamayuru or Kargil on the first day, then Kargil to Drass, Zojila and Srinagar on the second. Since you are already acclimatised, the altitude is less of a concern, but Zojila traffic still makes an early start important. Check the current one-way timing at Zojila before you set off.
Practical tips
- Road conditions: generally good on this section, but check for roadworks and landslides.
- Mobile coverage: good in Kargil and patchy elsewhere.
- Altitude: rising gradually from Drass/Kargil to Leh helps with acclimatisation.
- Villages: to explore less-visited places nearby, see our guide to hidden villages in Ladakh.
Food stops along the route
Dhabas and small restaurants are found at Lamayuru, Kharbu, Mulbekh and in Kargil town, serving dal, rice, rotis, noodles and tea. Kargil has a wider choice, including Kashmiri dishes. Between stops, carry water and snacks, as some stretches have little on offer.
Plan with Tripsdoc
Tripsdoc's Srinagar Leh Manali Package page shows a route that uses the Srinagar highway; check it for current itinerary details. For a custom plan, contact Tripsdoc.
Final thoughts
Between Lamayuru's Moonland and the memorial at Drass, this stretch of highway mixes geology, culture and recent history. Take it slowly and allow time to stop.
Photo credits (Wikimedia Commons): Ingo Mehling (CC BY-SA 4.0), Narender9 (CC BY-SA 4.0), Lalitgupta isgec (CC BY-SA 4.0).
Frequently Asked Questions
Kargil has more hotels and is a natural halfway point between Srinagar and Leh. Lamayuru is quieter and closer to Leh, and suits travellers who want to see the Moonland at sunrise or sunset.
Allow about an hour to see the memorial, the exhibits and the names of the fallen soldiers. Check whether any briefing or film is offered during your visit.
Kargil town receives travellers every season and is a regular overnight stop on the Srinagar–Leh highway. Follow local advice and any official travel advisories, as you would anywhere near a border.